SquirrelWorld
Wild Baby Rabbit Care Part 1
DIARRHEA-FREE!
In a previous
article (Kenyon, 1999), I introduced a protocol for the successful rehabilitation
of orphaned wild infant cottontail and marsh rabbits that avoids the often-fatal
diarrhea commonly seen during wild rabbit rehabilitation (Evans, 1983; Reese,
1992).This approach includestwo features:(1)habituating('taming')
the rabbits to captivity through early frequent handling, and (2) providing
the infants with 'soft feces' (also termed cecotropes) from an older wild rabbit
to help establish their gut flora prior to weaning them to solid food.My
previous article addressed initial care for the rabbits, making an incubator
and formula feeding.Here I describe the
remaining components of this protocol, including weaning to solid food, caging
and release procedures.
WEANING
Weaning-onset
diarrhea is a very common occurence in wild baby rabbits that have been separated
from their mother prior to their eyes opening.Once such diarrhea begins, I know
of no way to stop it, and it usually is fatal.To avoid this, within a day or
two of the eyes opening and BEFORE ANY solid foods are offered, begin the following
probiotic (microbe supplying) regimen. Obtain fresh cecotrope material (hereafterreferred
to as CTs) from an older healthy wild rabbit.There are two forms that can be
used. The most common is the CT "packet", the clump of closely clustered grape-like
'soft feces' that are expelled by the rabbit during the night or dawn hours.
CTs are dark brown to black, soft and moist, with a strong odor, in contrast
to the individual, lighter colored round pellets that are excreted (these are
also harder, drier and less odorous than CTs).Rabbits usually eat CTs directly
from their anus, and thus they are not readily found in a rabbit's excrement.The
best way to obtain CTs is to put an Elizabethan collar on a
Although
rather young wild rabbits may be seen outside their nest during weaning, this
does not necessarily mean that they are weaned from their mother's milk (Reese,
1992). For example, I have observed a wild mother rabbit (one that had previously
been rehabbed and released), near her nest nursing babies that were a few weeks
beyond eye-opening.In fact, cottontails are not fully weaned until 4-5 weeks
of age (Chapman et al., 1982).Thus, you
should continue to feed formula during the weaning process.To
avoid spoilage, do not add liquid formula to the oats or the pellets.Also,
do not put formula in a dish, as the bunnies will step in and run through it,
getting it all over themselves and contaminating it.Trying
to clean formula from bunny fur is very stressful both for the bunny and you!As
the bunny gets older, you can offer a dish of liquid formula and see if they
can drink it without making a mess.However,
do not leave a dish of liquid formula in the cage formore
than about 30 minutes because of potential bacterial growth.
Keep
fresh water available at all times, preferably in a water bottle (vs. a dish)
for cleanliness (note that bunnies reared with a water bottle readily convert
later to a dish or natural water source).Make
certain that all babies are eating the weaning diet.Weigh
them every 3rd or 4th day, and continue to monitor fecal quality.Offer
supplemental foods (well washed fruits and vegetables) only after the bunnies
are routinely eating the rabbit pellets.Keep in mind that supplemental foods should comprise no more that
10% of the total diet-- they are treats.Some
suggestions for these are broccoli (stems only), carrots, endive, kale, romaine
lettuce, water cress, cauliflowerand occassionally blueberries, strawberries or raspberries.Add
one small piece of supplemental food at a time, and then wait a couple of days
so that if a problem develops, you know which food may have caused it.Keep
a heavy dish (for stability) of rabbit pellets available at all times, and feed
the greens at dusk and early mornings, the normal foraging times for rabbits
(Harrison & Harrison, 1985).
CAGING
Once the
wild rabbit babies leave the incubator, they can be housed in a standard2' x4'
x 1 1/2' commercial rabbit cage as long as the cage is inside a protective enclosure.Outfit
these cages with hiding places, including boxes, tunnels, tubes made of pvc
drainage pipe and piles of hay.Also provide
dishpan-sized sand trays for digging and play.Do
not use these cages outside as predators(e.g., raccoons and cats) can reach through them and grab a bunny,
and snakes can crawl inside.Do not use
screening for rabbit enclosures, as raccoons and dogs can break through screening.It
is important to house bunnies in an enclosure with only bunnies, or with only
bunnies and squirrels.Make certain that
they cannot see, hear, or smell ANY potential predator.Keep
in mind that their senses are much more acute than our own.Reese
(1992) suggests keeping cages near the ground because rabbits are ground-dwellers.This
is good logic, but in my experience I have found that a person rising high above
caged rabbits tends to scare them.Therefore, I recommend that cages be elevated; also, an elevated cage
will bring the rabbits above the eye line of an outdoor predator.
Bunnies
at this stage are relaxed, curious, and playful, both with each other and with
their foster mom. I have observed wild-born litters that have left the nest
playing vigorously with each other, as well as playing by themselves, and even
trying to engage their real mother in play.Play
is a critical part of developing the predator-avoidance skills of speed and
jumps that result in a 180 degree turn.It is a tragedy to allow a baby rabbit to remain so frightened throughout
its early development that it never is at ease enough to play, and that it has
to be confined in a very small cage so that it doesn't injure itself, as some
rehabbers have suggested. When the bunnies begin to pace, dig and chew the wire,
or fight, it may not mean that they are ready for release but rather that they
need to be moved into a larger enclosure.It
is important at this stage to try to keep the group of bunnies no larger than
what is dictated by the size of the cage.Continue to observe them, especially at night, for signs of fighting
(e.g., clumps of fur on the floor or scratches on the bunnies) and be ever alert
for signs of stress.If these problems
occur, and you do not have a larger enclosure, you can intervene by separating
out an aggressive bunny, or by releasing it.
Enclosures
for outside should be made of galvanized 1" x 1/2" welded wire (preferred),
or galvanized 1/2" x 1/2" welded wire, elevated 2 feet off the ground with the
bottom area under the cage closed off to prevent predator access, and two sides
should be visually blocked to a height of18
inches.The enclosure that I have for
my outside bunnies is8' x 12' x 8' tall,
and has a plywood floor, with a small area with a wire floor for airing their
undersides (which they like to do), and for excretory purposes.They
are very easy to 'potty train' to a specific area by using urine-soiled newspaper.In
this enclosure bunnies are content, unstressed and playful, and they come to
greet me when I enter!
RELEASE
Rehabilitators
seem to be aware that typically, most orphaned wild baby rabbits get diarrhea
and die soon after their eyes open. Many assume that the diarrhea is due to
stress, which can be one cause, but more commonly the likely cause is enterotoxemia
from pathogenic bacteria in their gut (Cheeke, 1987).The high frequency of diarrhea
has led to the establishment of protocols, based on erroneous beliefs, to cease
giving formula and to release the animal shortly after the rabbit's eyes open,
or when it begins eating solid foods.Described
by Reese (1992) as a common mistake, and as I have heard others mention,the goal of many rabbit rehabilitators is to release the animals before
they die in captivity,using the reasoning
that'It doesn't matter, anyway, because
they are just going to be eaten by a predator.'It
is certainly true, at this very young age that, without a nest in which to hide,
and without much savvy of the dangers in the wild, they will soon be eaten,
and if not they will most certainly die from diarrhea!Given
such a self-fulfilling prophecy, one has to ask "Why bother 'rehabbing' them?"
Wild rabbit
babies in my care are usually 1/2 to 3/4 grown before I release them, and therefore
they are not going to immediately become a meal for a predator; their speed
and avoidance techniques by this time are well honed!Although they are comfortable
around me, they are frightened at the approach of other persons.To release them,
their enclosure is opened and they are free to leave whenever they are ready.If
they have not left by nightfall, the door is closed to prevent predators from
entering, and opened again the next day.They do not disappear in a panic retreat,
but rather leisurely explore their new freedom, sometimes returning to their
enclosure, and generally staying in the area for months and sometimes several
years, and are periodically watched by us at feeding and/or watering stations,
with their own babies, etc. On at least three occasions a mother rabbit had
her babies under the 'Critter Hut', the enclosure from which she was released.
In
general, for on-site releases, slow release methods are preferred as they allow,
the bunny to leave when IT is ready, rather than when the rehabilitator is ready,
and this allows the rehabilitator to keep track of the animal and provide assistance
if needed.Following is a list of questions
to consider before releasing rabbits that have been rehabbed:
1.)What
is the weather like and what is the forecast? Is
the rabbit in good enough physical condition to withstand these conditions?
2.) Is the
rabbit at normal body weight for its age (i.e., not too thin, with good muscle
tone, etc.?
3.) From
what injuries did it recover? Can it run properly? Does it have good strength
and stamina? Does it have normal vision?Can
it hear?Are the stools normal? Is it good general health?
4.) Does
it have a dense coat of fur?
5.) Is the
release site in the proper habitat: woodland with thick undergrowth, brush piles
and a meadow area, with ample food and fresh water (creek, stream, pond or lake)?Iffood
is seasonally sparse, will you be able to continue to offer handouts?
6.) Is there
evidence that some rabbits are living
in the release habitat? If not, figure out the reason-- it may be ominous!Are
there too many predators in the area, human hunting or trapping, etc.?
7.) Does
it recognize its predators, from the air as well as the ground?Is
it afraid of persons other than yourself?
8.) Is it
acclimated to the outside ambient temperatures? This is critically important.
9.) What
are the hunting and trapping seasons of the area? Try to wait until hunting
season is over!What about plans for construction?
Don't release in an area that is soon to be bulldozed!Always
obtain permission from the owner before releasing animals on property other
than your own.
CONCLUSIONS
In
this and my previous article (Kenyon, 1999), I have described a protocol for
successful rehabilitation and release of infant rabbits.I
have developed and applied this protocol over the past 12 years with dozens
of cottontail and marsh rabbits.Prior
to this, rabbits that were brought in for rehabilitation beforetheir
eyes opened (some were newborns), and had developed entirely normally to this
point, would invariably get diarrhea and die soon after I began weaning them
to solid food. Now, by habituating them to captivity and handling, AND by feeding
them CTs prior to weaning, my bunnies do not get diarrhea, they thrive during
rehabilitation and they are successfully released.Subsequent
observations on these rabbitsin the wild confirm their long-term survival and reproduction, essential
components of successful rehabilitation.
References
Chapman,
J. A., J. G. Hockman & W. R. Edwards. 1982.Cottontails,
pp. 83-123 in "Wild Mammals of North America: Biology, Management and Economics";
J. A. Chapman & G. A.
Feldhamer
(eds.). Johns Hopkins Univ. Press, Baltimore.
Cheeke,
P. R. 1987. Rabbit Feeding and Nutrition. Academic Press, Orlando.
Evans, R.
1983. Management of diarrhea related problems in cottontails. WRC J. 6 (#4);
13-16.
Harrison,
K. & G. Harrison. 1985. America's Favorite Backyard Wildlife. Simon &
Shuster, New York.
Kenyon,
L. R. 1999. Diarrhea-free! Successful infant rabbit rehabilitation. Wildlife
Rehabilitation Today11 (#1): 4-9.
Reese, E.
1992. Cottontail feeding problems: Part II "The big D". Wildlife J. 15 (#4):
7-11.
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Lou Rea Kenyon has a B.S. degree in nursing and is a licensed wildlife rehabilitator in Florida,She has been rehabbing for over 17 years and specializes in rabbits, squirrels, and opossums.She is owner of Nutkin's Nest Wildlife Rehabilitation Center.You can contact LouRea by email
at mailto:rabbit@nutkinsnest.com
SquirrelWorld Wild Baby Rabbit Care Part 1
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